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I have not figured it out yet. Surf??? Is there surf??? Can I surf??? When do I surf???

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I know there's a couple of spots that have the ice bridges that you can attack and it will let you cross
Yeah there is no surfing in this game. There's places where you'd swear it was designed with surfing in mind but they really do just want you to walk around. You either cross water by attacking the ice bridges, or in the case of Zone 2 there is actually shallow water you can walk across in front of the smashable rocks. I believe I've seen one or two other instances like this as well where there's obscured rocks in the water acting as a path. Kind of an anti-puzzle.

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Pokemon Legends: Z-A is the first core series game to not feature a method of traversing water using Pokemon as transport at any point in the base game. Your trainer cannot surf at all and invisible walls extending high into the sky will block the player character from passing over deep water. Surf can be used as a field move to clear away the piles of purple sludge littered across the city, but it's not particularly special since other Water-type moves also work.

Some areas that are covered by a shallow layer of water are still walkable, so check if there are any spots where there is actually solid ground just beneath the water. There are also locations where you can attack overworld objects to form bridges. As a notable example, the Rogue Mega Barbaracle mission is reached by walking into a tunnel filled with a shallow water and attacking an ice formation that forms an ice bridge across a gap of deep water.

Interestingly, leaked beta content reveals that rideable Pokemon were tested in early development, suggesting a similar system to the Ride Pokemon from Alola and Hisui (source, contains leaks for upcoming content), so it's possible that surfing was a planned but scrapped mechanic. It is currently unknown whether there are plans to add a surfing ability in future content for the game.

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